NEW POST OF OLD STUFF COMING SOON

Sorry everybody for the terribly long delay on my travel updates. Had to fall off the other side of the world for a while then just this week I finally figured out what was going wrong with my pictures not uploading. So look for all the juicy details in the next couple weeks. I PROMIS!!

My heart is burning

Before I left for Cambodia on the 11^th I had some time to kill in Bangkok.  Did a lot of baking, as in me moving as little as possible in my room with the fan on full blast praying for a thunderstorm. One day I had to just go shopping at MBK mainly for the enjoyment of being able to walk around in air conditioning. And I got a large bottle of shampoo when I meant to get conditioner. I didn't realize it until I poured it into my hand in the shower. "Why is this conditioner so watery.....awww mann!!" And now everywhere I go they only sell small bottles of conditioner! Its ridiculous! If you don't understand why this was such a big deal. My hair MUST have conditioner. I often use it without even using shampoo because it dries my hair out too much. Speaking of hair, all the Cambodians I've met are AMAZED with my hair. Which is funny because I used to want long straight Asian hair most of my life. 

           On the 9^th went to an art show opening for a watercolor class that Fritz friend was in. I found it QUITE amusing. First of all they had little boxed snack boxes for everyone and we were given a magazine with pictures of all the paintings and who had done them. Then we waited for quite a while until finally some guy who was I guess the guest of honor came into the room and sat down. Then we watched a movie with all the pictures that were in the magazine. All the people that were in the class were so excited about it. I think it was to see them selves on TV. Finally after that was over (which seemed like forever) a couple speeches were made and the guest of honor handed out certificates to each of the people that had completed the course. Then he gave a speech that everyone talked over then he did a painting which also took forever. Then finally after he was done with that and some more was said the ribbon was cut and we got to see the actual paintings. I’d say the whole thing took about 4 or 5 hours. Never been to an art opening that was such a big deal, and it was for only a two month class. I admired there enthusiasm about it all though.

Watching the photo album DVD 

The painting Mr. Important did ( I guess he was in politics). I think it had something to do with the lady just elected... prime minister? 

The toothbrush and broom store.

On the 10^th Fritz directed me to the weekend market. Seriously worst place ever if you are a shopper like me who can just browse for hours with no particular goal of what to buy. It was HUGE.  Aisle upon aisle of shops, I was lost for the majority of the time more or less. Everything from food, knick-knacks, plants, clothes (new, vintage and western (like cowboy western)) and my favorite/worst part of the market the pet section. Puppies, kittens, hedgehogs, every kind of rodent including SQUIRLLS. Most of the pet shops had “NO PHOTO” signs everywhere and I tried to get pictures of the squirrel apartment complex (just a bunch of 8”x8” to 10”x10” cages stacked on top of each other) with squirrels of all ages, but it was to difficult to sneak my camera out without someone seeing me and yelling “hey NO PHOTO”. The lady who ran the stack of was strapping a little knitted hat to one of the squirrels. GAH!  Despite the guilt I wanted a squirrel. So I bought a sweater for Bastian instead… along with many other things for myself because it was all so dang cheep! Got two new pairs of shorts for about $6.50! It was a dangerous place to go. Fritz said it is one of the best places to get illegal exotic pets if you know the right people. I had left that morning at 9:30am and didn’t get back to the house until 4pm.

Monday I just anxiously waited for my flight at 3:30 to Phnom Penh. Last time it had taken more then an hour to get through customs so I left earlier and of course there was hardly a line at all so I had two hours to kill at the airport. I got an ice cream and went around smelling perfumes and testing the most expensive beauty products. I left Thailand smelling great and lookin' fly. This all was reversed once I got to Phnom Penh because the traffic was really bad and it took about 40min in a tuk tuk breathing wonderful fumes to get to the Mad Monkey hostel.

            The first day here I bought a bike so I can get around town easy without always having to pay someone. Rode around and didn’t know exactly where I was but knew where I was headed eventually after a few back and fourths found my way back to the hostel. Got the low down of what Steve wanted for the mural, “something that gets people to think and is positive.” I found out that he is a very big nerd and quite interested in metaphysics/quantum physics. There are other artists involved also but they haven’t started yet and I also haven’t met them. Just yesterday I finally settled on an idea. It has to do with the Cheshire cat and the golden mean/sacred geometry. I won’t give more detail then that. Today the challenge is to find the supplies I need at the market. There is no such thing as an art supply store here. Had my first real case of bad heartburn from a delicious Cambodian style spicy baguette and pâté yesterday with my local friend Kok (I mentioned him in the last blog when I was in Cambodia). I have to find some Tums. I just had a latte, it was a bad choice.

Weekend market.

Thunderstorm!

good bye thailand

hello cambodia

 A warm welcome....

  the wall of destiny

 it hurts so good (notice the jar of chili paste and the large amount on my plate) Only 3000Real! (~ 75cents)

The house dog Bean

I would have been back in Cali right about now

Fritz picking out some rose apples for me (not normal apples)

After couple days rest in Bangkok after Cambodia I took the night train up to Chang Mai at 10pm Weds. The sleeper car was full so I had to get a second class recliner seat. Fortunately no one was next to me so I was able to curl up onto the two seats and prop my head off the seat onto my back pack and purse and managed to get something close to sleep. Woke up at 6 or 7. I cant recall exactly. All I know is it was too early the next morning. But outside the train was beautiful. We were now going threw jungle hills with little valleys full of rice fields or little banana orchards. At some point we went over a bridge that was too far off the ground without railings for my comfort. Awesome view nonetheless. The train didn’t get to Chang Mai until noonish so I grabbed a somewhat expensive tuktuk (well it was more like he grabbed me I guess I was really trying to avoid getting a tuktuk) into the center of town to look for a guest house. Found a nice one for 400baht, which was splurging because I could have easily found a not as nice of a room for 200. But it was the forth place I looked at and was tired of carrying my load around so I stayed. Walked around the town for a while and LOVED IT. I was in the old part of the city and all the streets are bricked and narrow of the main road. It was beautiful. The weather was much nicer then Bangkok. It was in the 80’s with only a bit of humidity with a breeze which I would consider a relatively comfy amount of hot. I then went back to hang out in my room with the fan and chill for a bit and ended up in a conversation with a guy I had met (Steve) who owns a guesthouse/restaurant in Phenom Phen and he was wondering when I was going to come visit it. He didn’t realize I had already left the country. I said well I can’t I’m in Chang Mai and I’m going back to the US next week. Not so long story short I was offered a mural job in exchange for a free place to stay for a month in Cambodia! I wasn’t sure what to do at first. So I told him I’d think about it. It might look like an obvious decision but I actually felt like I had a lot of things to weigh out. Luckily I was made this offer the day before I headed off to a Buddhist monastery for a few days.

Food frying station

Bangkok train station

The night train 

Very full angry river

between trains

My street in Chang Mai

Oh yes. The fixie hipster fad has reached even Chang mai

That night I went out and shopped at the Night Bazaar market and spent what looked like a lot of money on all sorts of this and that. I realllly really wanted a water buffalo skull that was for sale. Only $30! Yet alas I was traveling light with only a backpack so the thought of me lugging around a buffalo scull for a week didn’t seem so fun…but would have been amusing from an outside perspective.….dang it….I should have totally got it.

Its x-mas all year at the NIGHT BAZAAR 

I was considering renting a motorbike the next day, to drive out to the monastery but Nissara (my nun connection) suggested against it because it was pretty far. So I took the sung tao to Chomtong which took about an hour because it picks up and drops off people along the way, then got a ride from a motor taxi out to the monastery. The weather was even nicer out there because it was in the country, just orchards and rice fields and jungle. I wasn’t sure what to do when I got there though. There were just a couple people working in the kitchen and they didn’t speck any English and no one else was in sight so I asked for Nissara and someone figured they better go find the people that spoke English (who was Nissara). I arrived around 2 or 3 and it was the time of day when all the nuns are in there cabins minding there own business meditating or what have you. Nissara finally was found and she showed me around and got me my white clothes that the lays are supposed to ware. A lay is someone that have come to stay at a monastery but are not being ordained as monk or nun yet and they only take the first 5 vows. Then I got a cabin room (each nun gets there own room), a mat and a small pillow and a blanket. The mat was really just a thick felt blanket. They don’t sleep on mattresses because it is a luxury to the body and they are to focus on not wanting, because wanting breeds suffering. “If you always want things then you are never happy”. So I got settled in and changed into my lay robes and took off all my jewelry and gradually scratched off my bright blue toe nail polish because I didn’t have any nail polish remover.

A Day in a Monastery

3:30am a bell in is rung and at 4 everyone is in the meditation hall for morning chanting and meditation.

6am sweeping leaves off the paths/whatever else you need to take care of.

8am chanting to contemplate how food is for nourishing the body, not for beauty or pleasure then eating. Monks and Nuns only eat one meal a day of donated food. But lays are allowed to eat again at 11. No eating after 12, drinks are ok.

After breakfast you are free do what you want.

4pm more sweeping/chores

5:30pm the bell is rung and at 6 evening chanting and meditation until 8.

8:30 bedtime

I went to the evening meditation session that day and after the chanting (she gave me a book with Romanized words for the chants but I had no idea where they were 90% of the time). Then Nissara told me the vows I had to follow while there and she gave me a guided meditation to practice. The vows are: no sex, no violence (even to ants), no lies, no stealing, no alcohol or drugs. Pretty basic but not sure I know anyone that isn’t at least guilty of doing one of these things on the regular. Then back to the hall for more chanting.

When I got back to my room and turned the light on I saw a spider. LIKE A REAL too big for comfort SPIDER near the ceiling, poised like it was just waiting to snatch up a gecko and suck it dry. So naturally I had a small “Oh shit what am I going to do about this ******* large spider looming over me while I sleep”. I did nottt want to even mess with it. So I decided to be the best Buddhist that I could and said “Alright spider you don’t bother me I won’t bother you and we will both get out of here alive.” So I kept a night light on for a bit, but realized I would never sleep with the light on because I could still see it posted up there ready to strike so I turned off the light hoping that if I just couldn’t see it I wouldn’t have to worry about it. Well, that was a rough night, sleepin on the floor, dreaming about spiders crawling over the back of my neck. Then when it seemed I had finally fallen asleep, a bell, softly at first, then got louder, the most pleasant alarm clock I’ve heard. I was slightly relived that I could get up because I didn’t have to be in the room with the spider but 3:30am is a hard time of day, considering it’s still dark.

After the morning session which was a little shorter that day because most of the people we going to a monk talk somewhere and left I went back to my room. The spider still looming in the same spot but I was able to take a nap until 7 when I went up to the eating hall. Only 3 nuns (including Nissara) had stayed behind from the convention because they had colds. They eat a lot! They each have a large metal bowl which they fill at least half or more full and a plate which they pile with fruits. I could hardly eat enough to last a whole day. I went back to my room and decided I needed to do something about the spider. Who was still poised…in the same spot…so I got a broom and tapped the wall near it. It didn’t move. So it was either a spider that was tricks its victims into coming closer by acting dead…or…..yeah it was dead. Bang my head against the wall. Haha I felt so lame for being paranoid about it all night. Later I found a story in one of the very few English books they had in the monastery library by monk Ajahn Brahm about what fear is.

“Fear is finding fault with the future. If only we could keep in mind how uncertain our future is, then we would never try to predict what could go wrong. Fear ends right there.”

Cha who woulda thought I’d like learn a lesson at a monastery.

By 11 I was still full from breakfast but I ate some anyway because I knew I wouldn’t last all day. Did the usual nun thing and meditated and read in my cabin till 5:30 because well there is really nothing else to do. I really enjoyed it actually it was just what I needed after so much traveling back and forth. Just jungle noises, a nice thunder storm rolled in for like 3 hours. Didn’t listen to my ipod. Just chilled out, took a nap (it was hard not to), drank some cocoa.

Only Nissara and one other monk were at the evening session. So it was more relaxed and Nissara did some of it in English so I could understand what they were doing. Which was a lot of thanking the Buddha for his teachings and focusing on how we should not be attached to worldly pleasures and the beauty of the body is just an illusion because we are all gross guts on the inside and all end up ugly and then die. (she really did put it that way for me).  I will admit I was a little surprised because I thought Buddhism was slightly more optimistic like “even death is beautiful” but there philosophy is to rid themselves of want to achieve the greatest happiness (enlightenment), so I guess if you put it that way then it works. There are a few different forms of Buddhism and I’m definitely no expert but all there philosophies are slightly different.     

The next day was the same routine. I napped past 11 though so I missed my second meal. Made friends with the monastery cats, meditated, read, contemplated weather I was going to Cambodia or not. By the time I went to sleep I was really missing that second meal. It becomes surprisingly more difficult to fall asleep on the floor when you have an empty stomach. But it was much easier then when the spider was alive in my head.

Woke up the next morning and decided I was going to Cambodia. I figured I know what’s at home, it’s not like I get offered to make art in other countries everyday, its pretty much exactly what I want to do with my life (make art/travel), and I would rather regret doing it then going home and regret not doing it, so why hell not! Took the sung tao back to Chang Mai to catch my train to Bangkok at 5:30. Meet some interesting French characters in the restaurant car and taught them Crazy 8’s. That’s my go to card game if you haven’t noticed, for some reason a lot of people don’t know it. I thought it was like the next step up after learning Go Fish. Didn’t make it back to Fritz’s house till 8:30 and saw him leaving to the dentist on the way home. OH yeah! I have a dentist appointment. So I got to go to the dentist and get a teeth cleaning. The cleaning only took like 10mins because as the doctor said “What no fillings! You have virgin teeth!” I didn’t feel like she gave me my moneys worth of cleaning though. I’ve never had a cleaning that only lasted 10 mins and I haven’t been to the dentist in over a year. I guess my teeth are just that awesome. Thanks mom for never letting me eat candy as a child.

In the sung tao

Meow

half way to already having a shaved head

Ants sharing hot cocoa with me

Some gecko eggs that fell outta my curtain

bigish bug carrying another big dead spider

buddy meow

my room got a deck and everything. quite a nice resort

really detailed wood doors to the prayer hall

big moth

jungle

to remind us

jack fruit tree

Nun and lay clothes

leaving the monastery

In the Boogy train restaurant. Watching karaoke videos

train bunks

train bunks put up for daytime

Oh a train

Don't eat the Shrimp. But the water is fine!

Angkor Thom

Back in Bangkok, it’s 96 degrees Fahrenheit and its like swimming threw the air because it’s so humid. Where do I even begin with Cambodia? Lets start with how they use American money. I got American bills out of an ATM. 5000 Real (Cambodian $) is only $1.25 American and they don’t use coins so when you get 100 real it’s like having a bill worth a penny. But the whole time it’s very confusing when you get change back because it’s in American and in Real so you have to be really carful you aren’t being ripped off. Which is very common with tourists there because they know it is confusing for us. Secondly if I never saw anything on the menu for over $5. It’s like I died and went food heaven.

            So I started my trip to Cambodia flying there. The flight is only an hour so I was surprised when I had only gone threw 5 songs on my iPod and the announcement came on to turn electronics off I was used to the long flights to get into Asia.  Fritz’s friend Pheakday came to pick me up and drop me off at my guest house. There were a ton more motor bikes then in Bangkok but they also drove on the same sides of the road as in the US which was an easy adjustment for me. But the traffic, oh my god. Most of the intersections don’t have stop lights so everyone is just getting threw weather someone is about to run them over or not. And you have to do the same thing to cross the street if you’re walking, wait for a big enough gap to not get hit right away and just go until you get to the other side and pray everyone is watching where they are going as motorbikes swerve around you. Top Banana guest house is where I stayed. Got a room with a shared bathroom for $6 a night...(wont stay there again) Run by a Cambodian couple but it turned out to be quite the local foreigner hang out spot. Met up with a high school friend Sarah Greenwood (now goes as Faine) who is working as a reporter for the Phnom Penh Daily. We had some Cambodian food and tried stir fried frog legs. So GOOD! Literally taste like chicken. No joke.

            Woke up the next day around 7am to catch my bus to Siem Reap to visit the ancient Temples of Angkor. The bus ride there is a good adventure in itself. There are still parts of the road that are unpaved and even in the paved parts there were a good amount of pot holes to be avoided. It felt like the bus was going somewhere between 55-70 mph, swerving to avoid potholes or motor bikes or other slower trucks and such and honking each time it was about to pass someone. I got assigned a seat in the very front on the isle and the speakers for the TV were right over my head blasting Cambodian pop music videos playing karaoke style on the TV. The guy next to me had a whole bunch of brief cases with him taking up his leg room so he took up half of mine. All the music videos were either a girl or a guy fighting over a girl or a guy and that girl or guy dying tragically (such as being hit by a car or stabbed accidently trying to break up a fight) or that girl or guy breaking there heart for someone else. So nothing new but it was crazy to not have any idea what they were singing about but gathering all I needed to know from the videos. I managed to keep myself amused in a sarcastic way. Something else I’ve noticed around Thailand and Cambodia is that having porcelain white skin is desired more then the natural tan most of them have, which is a strange comparison to the ever so popular California tan. But I digress. The bus ride was about 6 hours from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. Besides the uncomfortable bus the country in Cambodia is beautiful. Mostly rice fields and houses along the road, water buffalo, cows and chickens everywhere. We past threw an area with the most adorable bay ponies that were pulling wooden carts. I can’t say if the ponies were happy about it but as you can imagine I was stoked to see little horses.

When I arrived in Siem Reap the tuk tuk drivers descended upon me like the plague. “tuk tuk Lady?” “hey lady tuk tuk!” “Lady motor bike lady!” Oh yeah everyone calls you lady. So I gave into one of them and got tuk tuked into town and I think I might have chosen the slowest tuk tuk driver of the bunch because everyone else was passing us. Haha but it was nice to be going slow enough to take in the surroundings. Lots of hotels and guest houses everywhere. I was there in the off season so the town wasn’t nearly as crowded as I guess it gets but it was still pretty busy at night to me. I went to a few guest houses before deciding and got one next to the bridge over to the Old Market part of town where all the commerce was. It was kind of exhausting to walk around the market because every tuk tuk driver hounds you and every stall in the market (80% of them all sell the same things) was a challenge to walk past because the women running them are constantly “have a look lady” “you want scarf lady” “come buy something lady” (90% of the shops sold scarves they are now the bane of my existence). I just don’t understand how any of them made money when they all sold the same junk its ridiculous. But of course I bought my fare share of everything except scarves. Someone threw one into my bag with the other stuff I bought for free though so they must be sick of scarves also. The next day I woke up at 4:30 to go see the sunrise at Angkor Wat, the most famous of the ancient temples. At every temple there are a group of kid and people all trying to sell you scarves and pictures and magnets. The kids will follow you around for blocks with the most sad puppy dog looks saying “please buy my postcards, just $1, just $1 for some rice” or “ I need money for school just $1 please lady”. There are also women who dress poorly and rent babies to sit on the street to beg for money with. It’s really crazy. I’ll let the pictures do the rest of the explaining here.

at a bus stop on the way to Siem Reap

From my seat in the bus. Race car screen saver. Very cute curtains

sunrise at Angkor Wat

All the other tourist

Pony stallion in front of a road they used back in the day when the temple was built

Angkor Wat form the back

Some cows outside the temple wall

Ahhhhhhh want!

So im walking back to the Wat and am thinking "I wonder if there are monkeys here" then I hear a crash in the tree next to me and look over and this is crawling down.

Could have got a ride for $15 but was happy enough to feed her a bananna

South gate of Angkor Thom

Carving at Angkor Thom

The second night in Siem Reap I found a bar that was completely empty with a pool table thought I’d practice my skills (which I have little of when is comes to pool its mostly luck) and ended up meeting two Australians Joel who owned the bar and Daniel who owned a different bar. Played pool with them and I failed miserably but won a couple times by chance. But then I thought them how to play checkers and took'em to the cleaners. Well I would have if we had bet money but anyway. Daniel as it turns out was a metal worker before he decided to move to Siem Reap and built a steel half pipe on the roof of his bar. Im no pro skater but I was excited and he invited me to skate it. Which I did the next day after a trip out to Banteay Srey (late 10^th century temple) which was beautiful. Much smaller then the other temples I visited but the detail of the carvings were unmatched. After that I went to a waterfall I had to hike to with carvings in the river and butterflies everywhere. AWESOME!

The spider i will have nightmares about. larger then my hand with its legs out

Spider was crawling towards this 

Some other tourist getting mobbed by kids

Most awesome tree. Kid who thinks hes awesome for ruining my picture.

My villa. The pool was very much needed.

Add caption

Girly bar.

Dr. Fish foot massage! You put your feet in and the fish swarm to you and eat all the dead skin off your feet. It tickles beyond belief at first but after a minute it feels really good. And your feet look beautiful afterwards.

Banteay Srey. Amazing detail work.

A Tuk tuk with more then one person passing mine. 

A Cambodian mountain

hike to the waterfall

this is before I took a shower

Cool lizard jumped in fornt of me trying to catch the butterfly below

A motor bike can pull anything. (sacks of charcoal wood)

Water buffalo

Sowan :The slowest tuk tuk driver ever. But a good guy.

Roof top half pipe

The bus ride back to Phnom Penh was a long but not quite as painful as the trip before because even though I was right under the speaker again I at least on a window seat with more leg room so I was able to sleep somehow threw the karaoke. It took 8 hours to get back. They did mix it up a little bit though and played some movies and some water buffalo fights. They put to pissed off water buffalo bulls in a arena together and let them charge at each other and they head butt and flip each other over and finally which ever buffalo gets the other buffalo to run away first wins! But trying to stop the winning buffalo after is hauling ass after the other buffalo is another challenge and people are getting dragged and nearly bulldozed. I was guilty entertained. I also wish I smoked cigarettes because there only around $1.25 a pack. Which is ridiculously cheep isn’t it? But I never buy cigarettes so I really wouldn’t know for sure. But my stomach from the shrimp the night before wouldn’t let me eat anything for a couple days that wasn’t cup noodle. When I got to the Phnom Penh bus station the sim card Pheakdey had lent me expired so I could only take incoming calls so I had to find a phone. But his number didn’t work so I called Sarah and she was at work so I said well I guess I gotta get to the guest house on my own. Took a motorbike taxi to Top Banana and the bar was having a party so I decided to go else where. Found a place around the corner called The Blue Dog for $8 a night. Not as luxurious as the room I had in Siem Reap but I was tired, queasy and didn’t care at that point and the bed was soft.  It turned out to be a really cool place though.
Saturday Faine took me to the market where there were many more scarves and interesting smells, we went to get lunch and I got a delicious tasting sandwich but couldn’t eat more then a bite because my stomach still refused to like anything accept noodle in a cup and liquids. Went to Faine’s friend’s party that night and met a lot of interesting journalists. When I got back to the Blue Dog I thought I had been locked out so I went around the corner to Top Banana and they said “well don’t you have two keys? One of them is for the gate” …Duh. So I just decided to say and have a drink there because the vibe was mellow and ended up on a tuk tuk with 8 people to another bar after Top Banana closed.  We went to the Candy Bar…and it turned out to be a girly bar…which is a bar where sleazy old foreigner guys go to hook up with the prostitute waitresses more of less. But we were there because it was the only place open late. They knew we weren’t there for their..Um goods and most of the x-pads (foreigners that lived there) were all relaxed about it. But me and an Aussie dude Justin who was also staying at Blue Dog decided we had had enough of the shady atmosphere and high tailed it home. On Sunday one of the local guys, Kok who works at the Blue Dog took me to see the killing fields. Which was depressing and surreal but I will admit they need to update the documentary they play in the museum because the horror flick sound effects made the whole thing seem a little too…not serious. If you aren’t quite up to date with world history (I wasn’t either) the Khmer Rouge were an army of Cambodians who took over the Cambodian government and basically enslaved there own people and killed off everyone who was educated and many many more. The killing fields are mass graves. The one I visited they built a monument full of the bones of the people executed pulled out from the graves. Basically it was the Cambodian version of the holocaust. I felt slightly guilty for taking pictures…but its not often you see a tower of bones. But after Kok took me out on his motor bike to some delicious spicy sour noodle soup and sugar cane juice and then we headed to a boat party that takes a cruse up and down the river. Oh man. It was cool seeing the river but being on a boat with techno music and there were probably 7 guys to every girl. The boat trip lasted for about 4 hours and I was ready to dive off after 2. But the weather out on the river was lovely and I liked the views.

Monday I had lunch with Faine to say goodbye. She and everyone else I met told me that I should just move to Phanom Penh and get a job teaching English and doing murals. Tempting…very tempting. I have to admit I was sad to be leaving so soon. I’ll be on a train up to Chang Mai tonight for my last leg of the trip.

The ladies really love the bling

Beware

Killing fields monument

Killing fields ditch...with chickens

Kok and his cool car. A Daewoo Tico

River cruise boat

Kok enjoying some very hot and sour soup on a very hot day. We sweat the whole time we ate.